Last up at about 8.30. The other two couples had an air of experience that gave way when they were still faffing when we left. The Avalanche Creek Falls were worthy of a photo opportunity though I couldn't say that much for the Punchbowl Falls [over the road]. I'm sure the guide said suitable for all levels but when you were reduced to clambouring over large boulders in lieu of path I wasn't so sure. The falls themselves are for a relatively small stream which gives the wind plenty of opportunity to whip into spray in its 131m descent. With the sun in front of us and spray all around about the last thing we needed was to be restricted in how close you can get. And sure enough, the last thing was...
For some reason we decided to check the engine oil. The reading was low. In fact it was way below low and barely registered on the dipstick. We purchased some more and glugged it in and lo, the funny rattle from the engine that had been plaguing us for most of the trip went away...
A little way past Arthur's Pass is the Otira Gorge noted now for its spanking new viaduct (opened 1999) which replaced the "adventurous" zig zag road up and down back and forth at the aptly named Death's Corner. The word "infeasible" sprang to mind looking at the old road and "why didn't they do it before" when looking at the replacement. At the far end of the viaduct is another lookout over the two (equally new looking) water and rock over-your-head tunnel thingies [you know the sort of thing]. In the carpark were two kea being a nuisance which several tourists quite idiotically fed thus ensuring the cycle continues. They might argue that, for once, the wasn't a "do not feed the kea" notice whereas I could propose that they either wouldn't or couldn't read it.
We stopped in Hokitika for lunch. More films for Helen -- they get bought 16 at a time -- more rations and a knock on the door of Helen's second cousin. Who wasn't in. Hokitika isn't small but the place appeared deserted especially as it's the Saturday before Christmas. Hokitika also has a peculiar bent for road and rail crossings. They built a roundabout with the railway through the middle. A blind bend onto a long single width bridge that the railway runs through the middle [down the length] of. Another roundabout with rail crossings at both the South and East exits... A lot of the rivers in these parts have a lovely cloudy green hue. This is greenstone (jade) country.
We trundled down to Franz Josef, a town noted for having a glacier in its back garden. Or rather it did in recent history. 250 years ago it would have been giving motorists some grief on the SH6 (if it had been there) but even in 1900 it covered the entire rocky plain at what is now its base. At the start of World War II you could sail between icebergs in a short lived lake but now it's retreated back into its mountain cleft. What's more irritating is that having read the blurb about not standing underneath the terminal face for fear of large rocks falling out of the melting ice is that they, for our own safety, restrict us to over 200 yards away! I think that's over cautious and surely prevents and easy nomination for the Darwin Award.
In passing through the eponymous(?) Fox Galcier I idly read out the names of cafes and Helen interpreted that as a request to stop for dinner. A tasty little chicken enchilada and Montieth's Original (apparently based on an English Pale Ale though with added low temperature) we hit the road to head down to Haast, home for the night.
Haast Highway Accomodation is another YHA associate -- this time 50c for six minutes hot showering. It appears to be a large modern [farm] shed with the insides converted for accomodation. As I write someone above sounds like they're dragging furniture over a bare floor. How irritating.
Room 2, Haast Highway Accomodation, Haast S43.88220 E169.04372 Elev. -20m!
There are fly screens over the open windows yet you can't close the windows. Stinky travellers, I guess. The main kitchen eating and lounge area is closed at 10.30. Can't have these people hanging around together!
Copyright 2002 Ian Fitchet. All rights reserved.