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They're a bit funny with breakfast at the Royal, starting at 5:30 and finishing at 9:30. We aimed for 8 and hit breakfast at 8:30 just, it felt, at the height of the rush. Not a bad affair, fried rice and chicken, I think, though I held back slightly on the chillies in oil, and toast.

First job is to find somewhere else to live. We're only over the road from the Khoo San Road [actually Khao San Road], the tourist hub. But it's quite a road. Not seeing a pedestrian crossing and spotting a gap in the traffic we jogged across the six lanes. To the central reservation. Even now, only ten minutes after leaving the Royal we're hot and sweating and buy a bottle of water. We walk down a side street noted for a couple of guesthouses and spot one not on the list that looks clean. And at B1620 for three days is a much better price. We look at another that's in the book but the wallpaper's peeling off etc.. We'll stick with #1. Back to the Royal and an hour and a half break in the air con. Then we drag our gear over the road -- we've found some traffic lights which, if nothing else, affords fewer oncoming vehicles for a short while. We do lunch and book ourselves onto two day tours for tomorrow and the next day before heading out to Chatuchuk Market.

One thing we hadn't quite realised is just how far out it is. Not quite as far as the bus station but still probably 6km away. A long time in Bangkok traffic. Mind you, despite the Bali [-esque look] -- the road [side] is always built up -- coming in on the bus I was of the opinion that Bangkok started 50km out. Chatuchuk Market is big enough to warrant maps of the place and indeed it's pretty big. I'm not a markets person so I can't say if it's a whopper but you can certainly buy a good range of stuff. Whatever, it's too hot to be bouncing off other people in narrow alleyways and we head back.

On Khoo San Road we duck into an alley to a bar'n'books affair where we sample the beer (the usual strong lager) observe the transvestite/lady boy owner and Helen buys some books. A quick shower and we head out for an Indian for dinner. Our first choice has disappeared despite an extended search and we go to a fallback restaurant where the air con and fans are causing a chilly gale but the food is quite good. Nice to taste the Birmingham masala tang and eat Birmingham nan bread. Back to bed for a reasonably early night ready for tomorrow.

Sawasdee Woraburi Khao San Inn, Bangkok N13.75837 E100.49728 Elev. 22m Sawasdee Woraburi Khao San Inn, Bangkok