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A good lie-in this morning. Well deserved, I think. We'd ascertained that breakfast was not included -- and would be at least RM10 -- so we lazed until 11ish. Helen was sent in to shower first, we having suspicions about the two cold taps. Some shrieking later Helen pronounced no hot water. I decided I was clean enough today. In the meanwhile I'd found the Australian Grand Prix on the clearest TV channel. I'd turned up the volume and as expected there was some Malaysian chatter so it went off again. The subtitled positions looked very similar to ITV though. Helen came out and, doubting me, turned the volume up again and there were the dulcit tones of Martin Brundle. I didn't know he could speak Malay...

We sat and read for a while then went down for some lunch. The lunch and dinner menu had been replaced by a rather shortened affair, presumably to give the real chef a break. It was 2:30 or later. Having joked last night about scoffing a pancake with banana and ice cream for every meal, the choice was plain. Helen went for the half dozen cheese sandwiches which turned out to be three. No respite on the charges, though, both around RM14. Fortunatly, all these pricey little extras are going on the room charge so we'll just have an unhealthy bill at the end. This is the first place to run us close to our US$80 budget per day. Not to worry, it's 26C, a cool breeze blows over and it's all rather peaceful. Even the plentitude of cars has reduced though we think it's fifty-fifty for guests and day trippers as during lunch the "car park" filled completely and we hadn't seen a soul (all taking tea in the garden, one presumes) but there had been a good dozen (English dozen!) check-ins after us. Our sensible plan of staying another night and going on one of the tours tomorrow has fallen slightly flat as the tea plantations are closed on Mondays. Helen has suggested we go on Tuesday morning and get the last bus (4pm) back to KL -- KL appears to be the only hub to get anywhere.

As we sit here, wreathed in smoke from the chimney of the dining room a mullah has started encouraging the masses to prayer which echoes quite serenely across the valleys around. Sadly the precise wording is lost (as if I would know) as it sounds like they bought the PA system off British Rail. As we head down for some tea at 8 there's a terrific lightning display up north. We've stars over our heads but the sky north is clouded over. Great swathes of which are being lit up from within like a cod film effect but with the sound turned off. Not a whimper reaches our ears.

More curry for tea. Sadly the storm's disappeared so we settle down in the snug to read the paper -- tonight a different large insect buzzing around.

Bala's Cottages, Tanah Rata, Cameron Highlands N4.47786 E101.37877 Elev. 1518m